Pigmentation is a dark matter

pigmentation is a dark matter! Many have probably heard, read, or guessed about the snow-white, even, and smooth faces of Japanese women. Yes, yes, such beauty has been valued in the East since ancient times – whitened faces, necks, and décolletés. The association of Japan – geisha – white face is so firmly entrenched in the world that even today many European women, seeing cosmetics labeled “whitening,” say: “No-no, I don’t need that, I don’t want a white face!”

However, modern Japanese skincare products are far from the prosaic “whitening.” Today, it is advanced, long-term care aimed at addressing the problem of pigmentation both externally and internally. Care that ultimately results in fresh, even, glowing skin.

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What is beautiful skin like and what prevents it from being so?

Today in Japan, beautiful skin is a smooth porcelain tone, without that yellow-gray ripple/murk, it seems to glow from within. Skin with a quality and smooth texture. It is easy to “decorate” it by moisturizing in the morning with lotion, emulsion, and a light tone, with an invisible hint of makeup. Skin without excessive tanning, but not white-matte. Skin with a unique, truly ours undertone, inherent to us from birth.

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All these women are of different ages, but they all have healthy skin. Skin that captures light well and reflects it. However, there is an invisible enemy of beautiful and healthy skin – melanocytes. Melanocytes themselves are not bad. Their task is to produce melanin – a special chemical protection of our body against the harmful effects of UV rays.

However, melanocytes do not always “produce” this melanin only under the influence of UV rays, and far from always does it look like a light tan. Very often, under the influence of various factors (hormones, stress, smoking, etc.), melanocytes produce melanin uncontrollably, and in places where there were previously skin problems (inflammations, acne), it turns into spots of pigmentation.

But in the overwhelming majority of cases, melanin spreads all the way to the stratum corneum of the skin and prevents normal light reflection from our skin. Hence, we get this dullness effect. The Japanese, as in everything, explain this issue scientifically with diagrams and photos.

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The Japanese, with their characteristic trait of continuously improving everything everywhere, also conduct non-stop research and tests in cosmetology regarding the fight against pigmentation. I took these photos from a recent Japanese beauty magazine BITEKI, although the article is not scientific, but more of an advertising nature. But agree, it gives a quite comprehensive understanding of what this dullness is.

For Japanese women, whitening care has long become a norm rather than a periodic thing. In this dark matter – pigmentation, haste will not yield results. Only long-term, I would even say, constant care. Because if we want glowing and fresh skin, then at least one whitening product should always be in our daily skincare routine.

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Who is this WHITENING?

To date, there is not a single cosmetic brand in Japan that does not have a line labeled “whitening.” The compositions of such products usually include components: APPS (stable form of vitamin C), hydroquinone, arbutin, tranexamic acid, kojic acid. All these substances affect melanocytes in their own way, but their goal is the same – to calm the uncontrollable production of melanin, smooth out the external manifestations of uneven pigmentation, improve the overall skin tone, make it glow from within, and eliminate that unfortunate dullness of the skin.

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The use of quality brightening care gives the first visual results quite quickly. The skin acquires a more even tone, it seems to reflect light better, and the pores become smaller. Of course, we are not talking about any global pigment spots, dark ones with clear contours. Such spots are unlikely to be “defeated” by skincare products, but it is quite possible to smooth their contours and reduce the intensity of their color. There are, of course, mechanical methods of combating pigmentation (laser, deep chemical peels, etc.). However, personally, I do not consider them as a treatment option, as they are painful, traumatic, and risky in terms of unpredictable results.

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Personal experience in the dark matter – treating pigmentation

For me personally, the issue of pigmentation is very acute, so every spring-summer season I meet armed with SPF products and vitamin C. And in the autumn-winter season, it is various enhanced measures to restore even tone – light peels, compresses, electroporation procedures with vitamin cocktails. This winter turned out to be atypical – an unplanned trip to Thailand for a week happened.

Of course, I covered my face in every way, used SPF with maximum protection, but… my melanin got stuck unevenly on my cheeks. The cheeks are my “problem” area, I previously suffered from constant inflammations in this area. And now – pigmentation at the slightest provocation, be it sun, pregnancy, etc.

In the photo, I show a clear example of my problem. This is how I arrived in Thailand….

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In the following photos below – I returned after a week. Uneven skin tone, overall “murk,” spots of pigmentation on problem cheeks, thinning skin, and a general decrease in tone, feelings that are not pleasant. The harm from the sun is more strongly realized upon returning home, looking in the mirror in our usual daylight. In hot countries, the sun shines brighter and the picture is completely different… I always suffer more on the left side, and I tried to show it in the photo. No filters and makeup. Please don’t judge too harshly for the funny headband, I’m still a blogger).

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In the “after” photo – the result after 9 days of intensive brightening care. A more even and lighter tone, less yellow murk, the skin has shone, more elasticity. The contours of the main spot on the cheekbone have been smoothed. A smoother texture allows for easy application of basic makeup.

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My arsenal in the fight against pigmentation

I won’t reveal anything new – at the forefront is quality two-step skin cleansing: makeup removal and washing. Only this way and no other, for several years now. This is the most important. Without thorough cleansing, the effect of subsequent care steps sharply approaches zero. Therefore, we stock up on patience and develop the habit of cleansing the skin in 2 steps. The rule becomes even more relevant the denser the makeup.

The good news is that at this stage, you can save quite a bit, as almost all Japanese makeup removers and cleansers are good (at least those on the Azimka shelf have been personally checked)). You just need to choose a product according to your skin type and select from the textures. I prefer cleansing creams, melting balms, and gels. The latter are especially good for morning skin cleansing (I love refreshing my skin in the morning from the remnants of nighttime care).

Returning to specific whitening care for sun-damaged skin. In the photo – what I am currently using. This is a doctor’s whitening care – Ampleur Luxury White.

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The Ampleur Luxury White line is designed to address age-related skin issues: dullness, spots, dehydration, loss of elasticity. The gentlest textures do not dry out, do not tighten, with a wonderful subtle scent of chamomile. The compositions are well thought out. The main brightening components of the line:

New stable hydroquinone – responsible for skin brightening, restores cells oxidized by oxygen under the influence of UV rays.

Vitamin C derivative – suppresses melanin production by inhibiting intracellular tyrosinase activity. Stimulates collagen production.

Resveratrol – a grape polyphenol, helps activate “youth proteins” sirtuins, which are responsible for restoring damaged cells. Resveratrol is an active fighter against free radicals, which are formed as a result of oxidative stress, including from UV rays.

α-lipoic acid – protects against free radicals. Rejuvenates by preventing glycation (accumulation of sugar and damage to collagen framework fibers), as well as by restoring already damaged collagen fibers.

Makki berry extract – rich in polyphenols, flavonoids. Binds and removes free radicals formed due to oxidative processes in the skin.

All these components are packed in a nanocapsule for transdermal delivery to the skin.

The line also includes several other products (not shown in the photo): a serum for spot treatment of more global spots, a serum with pronounced rejuvenating action, a day gel-cream “all in one” (which has had a high customer trust rating in Japan for several years), soap. The products definitely deserve trust, but I am currently only using these 4 that are in the photo.

Cleansing in Ampleur Luxury White is represented by milk, foam, and soap. I use the first two. Everything is gentle and smells nice. Next, after cleansing and washing – a luxurious white lotion – Luxary White Lotion AO II, as the first step of moisturizing. Luxurious – that’s what the manufacturer called it. It really is! A thick transparent liquid, also with a gentle chamomile scent. I apply it with my hands, pressing my palms against the most problematic areas of the skin. For those who like to wipe their skin with cotton, that can also be done. In this case, it is very pleasant and beneficial to leave a damp cotton pad on the cheeks as a compress for 5-10 minutes.

After the lotion – a medicinal whitening serum, labeled medicated. In Japan, products marked with the word medicated differ from regular cosmetics by the presence of active ingredients approved by the Japanese Ministry of Labor, Health, and Welfare. Such products fall into the category of cosmeceuticals and have advantages in terms of effectiveness over regular cosmetics. Medicated products are created with the aim of “maximum possible benefit with minimal harm.”

Luxary White Active Formula II serum has a texture reminiscent of an emulsion, spreads well on the skin, absorbs quickly, and does not leave stickiness. The medicinal active formula of the serum is aimed at quality skin hydration, brightening, and smoothing the texture. Suitable for both night and day care. Arbutin in the serum is the approved component that gives the product the medicated label. Arbutin is a plant ingredient. It is primarily derived from the leaves of bearberry and is a derivative of hydroquinone (a molecule of hydroquinone and glucose). Arbutin inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses melanocyte activity. The serum also contains components that promote accelerated metabolic processes in the skin: yeast extract, algae extract, ferulic acid.

Arbutin is a plant ingredient. It is primarily derived from the leaves of bearberry and is a derivative of hydroquinone (a molecule of hydroquinone and glucose). Arbutin inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses melanocyte activity. The serum also contains components that promote accelerated metabolic processes in the skin: yeast extract, algae extract, ferulic acid.

In addition to the main daily brightening care, I also have periodic treatment with vitamin C in my arsenal. This is a mixture of two essences from La Sincia: 4 types of vitamin C + 4 types of ceramides. Periodic – this is optional, I add it as a step in nighttime care. Also, on a weekly basis, I started doing hardware introduction of vitamin C into the skin (I bought a device for ion introduction of serums/lotions into the skin). There are many devices for home use, and this needs to be written about in a separate article). I have one like this (the products I am currently introducing are next to it):

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To be fair, I will say that in addition to skincare brightening products, I started taking a medicinal supplement internally. This is – TRANSINO White II, a tablet product that contains 5 components: tranexamic acid, vitamin C, vitamins B6 and B5, L-cysteine. TRANSINO White II is the first medical product officially approved by the Ministry of Labor, Health, and Welfare of Japan for combating skin pigmentation. It is effective against age spots caused by UV rays, as well as hormonal or so-called “liver” spots. There are contraindications, and it is necessary to consult a doctor before use.

In conclusion, I want to say that no brightening product has a cumulative effect. Therefore, for beautiful, smooth, and glowing skin, it is necessary to have at least one product labeled whitening in your daily skincare routine. And of course, the most important thing – we protect our skin from the sun!

On the Azimka shelf, there are quite a few products that influence the problem of pigmentation in one way or another. You can find them by the tag “#Pigmentation” or “#Whitening care“. From budget products, I recommend looking at the HADA LABO Shirojun Premium line. For lovers of vitamin C, I recommend medicinal thick vitamin lotion or concentrate with 4 types of vitamin C.

More interesting and useful publications can be found on my personal Instagram account @katerina_azimka

Best regards, Ekaterina

Wishing everyone health and beauty!