So, in the previous article, we stopped at the point that when choosing an SPF product, it is important to make a decision – will it be based on chemical or physical filters, or perhaps a combined type

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PHYSICAL (MINERAL) FILTER

Most mineral sunscreens contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide – two ingredients recognized as safe and effective by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) (you can read more about this here)

Micronized sunscreens based on zinc and titanium oxides – or products with very fine particles – act similarly to chemical sunscreens, absorbing ultraviolet rays (full information on this issue can be found here)

“Sunscreens based on zinc oxide are often recommended for people with increased skin sensitivity, including acne and rosacea, and they are gentle enough in composition, so they can be used by children,” says Elizabeth Hale, MD, board-certified dermatologist and vice president of the Skin Cancer Foundation

“They also provide broad-spectrum protection (from UVA and UVB rays) and are recommended for those who apply sunscreen daily to their face and neck, as they work to prevent ongoing damage to our skin from UVA rays, including wrinkles, pigmentation spots, and photoaging,” says Elizabeth Hale.

All this is good, but mineral products have their drawbacks. They can have a whitish tint, are difficult to spread, and, most unpleasantly, they leave a noticeable white cast on the skin. If you have very dark skin, this white cast can be particularly noticeable.

Tip: to avoid a “ghostly” face, choose new products with tinted zinc oxide.

Mineral sunscreens are also not always as resistant to friction as chemical ones, so reapplication may be required.

Mineral sunscreens come in formulas designed for both face and body.

CHEMICAL SUNSCREEN FILTERS

Products with chemical sunscreen filters absorb ultraviolet rays, converting them into energy, thereby protecting the skin from negative effects. Such chemical UV filters include:

Oxybenzone

Avobenzone

Octisalate

Octocrylene

Homosalate

Octinoxate

Since they were originally created to be well absorbed by the skin, the chemicals in the product usually apply smoothly, leaving no sticky or greasy feeling, and do not leave a noticeable white cast.

Are chemical sunscreen products safe?

! Although researchers express concerns that some chemicals in sunscreens, particularly oxybenzone and octinoxate, may disrupt certain endocrine functions, recent studies have not found compelling evidence of adverse health effects associated with sunscreens.
Experts recommend using sunscreens regularly.
Another potential drawback of chemical sunscreens: people with sensitive skin may experience an undesirable reaction, such as redness or inflammation

SO, WHAT IS BETTER?

In the debate between physical and chemical sunscreens, there is no clear winner.

“The most effective sunscreen is the one you will use,” says scientist Dr. Duffy. She notes that it is particularly important for people how the sunscreen feels and smells, but the most important thing remains its consistent use.

However, people with sensitive skin are likely better off using physical sunscreen, as it is less irritating to the skin.

IS SUNSCREEN HARMFUL TO THE ENVIRONMENT?

It is believed that some of the active ingredients in chemical sunscreens – particularly oxybenzone, octocrylene, and octinoxate – affect coral reef extinction.

Coral reefs can also absorb nanoparticles or very tiny particles from sunscreens, regardless of the ingredients.

If eco-friendliness is a must for sunscreens, it is best to choose mineral sunscreens that state they are free of nanoparticles. Usually, this means opting for lotions rather than spray products.

Sunscreen Filters – Detailed Overview

Tinosorb S

Absorbs and blocks all types of rays. Its name in INCI may sound a bit intimidating – Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine – but it is worth knowing it – as it is one of the best sunscreen filters known today. Widely used in Europe, Australia, and Asia.

This is a broad-spectrum chemical sunscreen filter (covers the entire range of UVA and UVB, 280 – 400nm) with peak protection at 310 – 345 nm. Unlike older UV filters, it is very photostable. It is almost not destroyed by ultraviolet radiation and is useful for stabilizing other less stable sunscreen agents, such as the well-known UVA protector avobenzone.

Octocrylene

Octocrylene is a organic ultraviolet (UV) filter that primarily absorbs UVB radiation and short UVA waves. Octocrylene has the potential to be used in various cosmetic products to provide the appropriate sun protection factor in sunscreens or to protect cosmetic formulations from UV radiation.

Loses 10% of protection after 95 minutes. – often acts as a stabilizer for photounstable filters, such as avobenzone, for example. It is also used in sunscreen formulations to enhance their water resistance.

Uvinul ® A Plus

The only photostable organic UVA absorber that covers long waves of the UVA spectrum. It has good solubility in cosmetic oils, as well as unique solubility in ethanol. It is compatible with inorganic UV filters, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. The outstanding photostability of Uvinul A Plus provides reliable and effective sun protection throughout the day.

Uvinul ® A Plus not only reliably filters harmful solar UVA rays but also provides excellent protection against free radicals and skin damage. Uvinul ® A Plus is ideal for long-lasting sun care for the face with anti-aging effectiveness.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone)

A synthetic sunscreen ingredient that provides sun protection in the UVA range. More commonly known as avobenzone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is approved worldwide. In fact, it is one of the most widely used UVA filters in the world, which has been thoroughly tested for safety and efficacy, and further safety studies are currently underway.

Many studies have shown that avobenzone becomes unstable under ultraviolet rays, which is one of the reasons for the need to reapply the product during prolonged outdoor exposure (loses 36% of protective abilities after 60 minutes). To enhance the photostability of avobenzone, UV absorbers such as octocrylene are often added to the sunscreen formula.

Synthetic and natural antioxidants (such as vitamin E ubiquinone, glutathione, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate) can also improve the photostability of avobenzone.

Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid)

A chemical sunscreen agent that provides reliable protection in the UVB range (280 – 320 nm) with peak protection at 306 nm. Its feature is that unlike most sunscreens, it is soluble not in oil but in water, making it ideal for creating lightweight formulas compatible with oily skin. It is also quite photostable and can be used to protect other less stable UV filters (for example, the well-known UVA blocker, avobenzone) in the formula. It is approved worldwide.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

A polymer that gives smoothness to the texture and visually evens out the skin surface. In anti-aging products, it provides a “soft-focus” effect and light-diffusion, correcting wrinkles. It has waterproof and water-repellent properties.

Ethylhexyl Triazone

A next-generation chemical sunscreen ingredient that provides the highest photostable absorption of all existing UVB filters (280-320) with peak protection at 314 nm. It is a poorly soluble, odorless, and colorless powder that works well in formulations.

Our team has examined all the products on display in our AZIMKA.shop store for active protective ingredients, hoping it will ease and speed up the process of choosing the right product for you

Table “Product – Active Filter”

Most Popular Questions About Sun Protection.

1. 1) If I use BB cream or foundation with SPF, will they provide adequate sun protection or not?

Yes, they will, according to the SPF factor indicated on the packaging. Refer to the table above – this way you can roughly determine how long the protection will last. However, you need to reapply protection; if you do not want to reapply a tinted product multiple times a day, it is better to prefer regular sunscreen.

2) If I have dark skin tone – do I need sunscreen?

Yes, you do. Although dark skin tones are less susceptible to the sun (burns occur less frequently), and you may feel that the sun does not burn you and there is no reaction – there are still risks of photoaging and skin cancer – dark skin still needs protection, just as much as light skin.

3) If I use a product with SPF – will I have a vitamin D deficiency?

Dermatologists agree – the risks of vitamin D deficiency are minimal; in everyday life, we still apply cream only to the face and neck, leaving areas of skin through which sunlight will still reach your body. It is also recommended to take vitamin D supplements during winter to avoid deficiencies.